the DRESS
babydoll dress - short, tent dress; 1960s babydoll dresses had tight-fitting shoulders --- the 1950's popularized chiffon babydoll negligees
chemise - straight unbelted dress
caftan - ankle-length garment with long, generous sleeves
granny Gown - ankle-length, sometimes ruffled, day dress of printed calico, cut like a Edwardian nightgown --- think 1980's Gunne Sax
handkerchief dress - panelled, asymmetrical hem with four distinctive points; style famously worn by Stevie Nicks in the 1970s
jumper/pinafore - sleeveless dress worn layered over a top
sack dress - loosely shaped dress that tapers in at knees
sheath - a straight, fitted dress with waistline
shirt dress - shirt-styled dress, typically cut without a waist
shirtwaist dress - tailored dress, with a collar, defined waistline, full skirt and (usually) a belt --- commonly-used 1940's-1960's
shift - straight unstructured dress, usually darted at bust
tea gown - a frothy, feminine semi-formal dress
tent dress - a dress flared from above the bust
trapeze dress - tent dress cut exaggeratedly-wide & extra-full
wiggle dress - fitted, hourglass dress, with a hemline narrower than the hips; Marilyn Monroe iconically wore wiggles.
wrap dress - diagonal style, overlapping at waist
the SKIRT
a-Line skirt - shaped like a capital "A" -- flaring towards hem
ballet-length skirt - ends mid-calf
broomstick skirt - characterized by numerous crumpled pleats --- think Fortuny or Issey Miyake
bubble/pouf skirt - bubble-shaped skirt
circle skirt - full and round --- a full circle skirt will lie flat in a ring
column/straight skirt - straight line with no flare at the hem
dirndl skirt - traditional skirt --- pleated or gathered at waist
gored skirt - is made from multiple tapered strips of fabric, widening towards the the hem
hobble skirt - fetishistically-narrow & tight-fitting; popular in the 1910's
kilt - classic tartan skirt, pleated & fastened by buckles or a large pin
maxi skirt - ankle-length
mermaid skirt - tight-fitting through the knees & flared at ankles
micro skirt - super-short length
mini-skirt - above-the-knee length
midi-length skirt - knee-length
pencil skirt - narrow skirt --- fitted to the body's curves
prairie skirt - slightly flared or very full skirt, with one or more flounces
sarong - skirt wraps around the body and ties or tucks at side
tea-length skirt - ending at the shins
tulle/bouffant skirt - sheer, puff skirt, often made of stiffened silk/nylon net; common in 1950's prom dresses
tiered skirt - skirt made of several horizontal layers, each wider than the one above.
yoke skirt - wide waist-band (possibly v-shaped) stretching to hips, joined to flaring skirt --- common in the 1980's
the TOP
bandeau/tube top - elasticized, tube-shaped covering
camisole/tank top/cami - sleeveless top
corset - lingerie-like, form-fitting bodice with boning/ laces or snaps
cropped top - hem is cut just above the waist; style had a resurgence in the 80's
double-breasted - one-half of the front overlaps the other --- often with double row of buttons, as in a pea coat
empire bodice - bodice ends just below bust
halter - sleeveless bodice with a wrap neck
illusion bodice - sheer material creates illusion of no bodice; famously worn by 1950s-1960s movie stars, such as Grace Kelly
peasant top - characterized with a low, gathered neckline & ruffles
peplum - skirt ruffle added to hem of bodice; common to the 1940's & 1980's
shell - short, sleeveless top --- often with buttoned back and jewel neck
surplice/wrap top - diagonal, cross-wrapped construction
trapeze top - sleeveless style with flared silhouette towards hem
NECKLINES
ballerina neckline - a low neckline associated with strapless or spaghetti-strapped garments
bateau neck / boat-neck - high, wide neckline that cuts straight across the front & back
cowl neck - exaggerated tube at neck, can be used as a hood or draped as a swag
crew neck - round neck with ribbed banding
dropped shoulders - the shoulder/sleeves falls off the shoulder
jewel neck - high, round, modest neckline at the base of the neck --- common to 1950's clothing
keyhole neck - cutout, fastening at top, front or back
mandarin collar - short, stand-up collar
notched collar - two-piece collar, worn open
scoop neck - low, U-shaped neckline
shawl collar - single-piece wide collar, turned down to form a continuous line around shoulders
spaghetti ties - thin fabric strings that bow at the shoulders
turtle neck - high, close-fitting, turnover collar
split neck - neckline has been opened at center to form a small "V"
sweetheart neckline shaped like the top half of a heart --- common to mid-century strapless dresses & sundresses
V-neck - open yoke coming to a "V" shape midway down the bodice.
SLEEVES
balloon sleeve - shaped full over the upper arm, narrow from elbow to wrist
batwing sleeve - dolman sleeve, cut extra wide at the armhole
bishop's sleeve - full below the elbow, cinched or left loose to drip at wrist
bracelet-length - ideal for showing jewelry --- commonly used in the 1950's
butterfly sleeve - wide, flared long sleeve, which sometimes connects at back --- 1960's-1970's gypsy-inspired style
cap sleeve - extra-short sleeve which sits on the shoulder
capelet sleeve - falls several inches below elbow in soft flare
dolman sleeve - sleeve is an uncut extension of the bodice --- common to the late 1940's
illusion sleeve - sleeve made of sheer material, giving the illusion of no sleeve
juliet sleeve - puffed shoulder, often narrowing to a fitted sleeve.
kimono - rectangle sleeve, which may be cut in piece with whole garment
leg-of-mutton/gigot sleeve - loose, full sleeve nipped into a narrow tube at the elbow
puff sleeve/pouf sleeve - A full sleeve, generous gathered at armhole
raglan sleeve - extends in one piece to the neckline with diagonal bust seam from the armhole to the neck
tulip/petal sleeve - shorter sleeve, crisscrossing over shoulders & biceps like petals; common to the 1970's
WAISTLINES
basque waist/V-waist - dropped waist starts several inches below the natural waist, often dipping at center, making a "V" shape
dropped waist - waistline is sewn several inches below natural waist --- as in 1920's flapper styles and 1960's scooter dresses
double-girdled waist – neo-Classical style of a double-tied cord
empire waist - waistline located just below bust
shirred waist - fabric is gathered to make a horizontal panel at waist
POCKETS
besom pockets - a pocket sewn inside the garment and accessed via welted, slit-type opening.
hip pockets - sewn on the sides at hip height
kangaroo pocket - piece of cloth sewn mid-garment, open on either end --- used in sports clothes & outdoor jackets
patch pockets - pockets attached to the outside of the garment
TAILORING
bias cut - Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric --- popular during the 1930's; drapes beautifully & creates slinky, body-conscious garments
blanket stitch - finishing stitch that forms a series of closely-spaced, decorative loops along edge
boning - flat, stick-like pieces sewn into a garment to stiffen & provide shape --- can be irksome but you'll look a Wow
dart - a pointed tuck, tailoring garment closely to the body --- the more darts the better, imho
facing - fabric sewn to the collar, front opening, cuffs, or arms eye of a garment to create a finished look
fagotting - an intricate, decorative, peek-a-boo "ladder" embroidery used in lingerie
french Seam - raw edges are completely covered --- sewn together to produce a finished interior seam
godet - triangular shape inserted into garment construction to give it fullness
gussets - triangular/diamond-shaped pieces at the underarm, popular during the 1950's, which allows freedom of arm movement in tight garments
pin-tucks - decorative folds, sewn and pressed down on fabric
piping - cord-like strip of fabric edging a garment
ruched/ruching - gathered material sewn to create loose pleats
scalloped - edged with continuous curves
smocking - fabric gathered by embroidery stitching; used commonly in sundresses & swimsuits for elaticized fit
swag - decorative, short train, attached at shoulder or waistline
top stitching - decorative row of stitching, sewn in contrast thread
waterfall - draping which creates a cascading look